Jacob Elordi and King Charles don’t have that much in common—but they both know how to wear a double-breasted jacket. Back in the day, these partially wrapped-around blazers were seen as the less formal alternative to tails in the 1800s. Things have changed though, and not just because we don’t settle arguments with a duel anymore.
As Western countries entered into both World Wars, fabric got more expensive, and owning a double-breasted suit became a bit of a flex. To cut a long story short, they’ve continuously changed in cut, shape and silhouette, all while rising and falling and rising again in popularity over the decades.
Now, they’re big again thanks to some massive moments and a lot of fanboys. Take Saint Laurent creative director Anthony Vaccarello, who put louche, double-breasted suits into the fashionverse for his autumn-winter 2024 collection. GQ‘s Samuel Hine called them “the most important suits of the year.” The baggy, power-shouldered silhouettes did a lot without saying too much. It’s the golden combination. Long, boxy jackets with relaxed pants create a shape that is equal parts structured, soft and flowy, and it hits the spot every time (especially if you’ve got a bit of height).
But these menswear staples aren’t just reserved for the Hollywood elite, or hardcore disciples of luxury fashion—they’re the kinds of jackets we should all be rocking. Want to know if you can wear double-breasted jackets to the office, or how to wear one casually, or what makes them different to their single-breasted counterpart? We’ve got you.
What is a double-breasted jacket?
A double-breasted jacket features two overlapping buttons which cross at the front. “Double-breasted [suits are] made in different formats. The traditional is cut with three functioning front buttons and three show buttons. The is double-breasted in its most formal cut,” says Savile Row legend Brian Lishak.
“It can also be cut with a longer lapel down to two functioning front buttons and two show, or even a single functioning button and one show.” And when it comes to dinner jackets, these “are usually cut lower to show off more of the white dress shirt and bow tie.”
What makes the double-breasted suit different from the single-breasted suit?
“The double-breasted suit defines the silhouette more extremely than single-breasted [options],” says Lishak. With peaked lapels and a slightly cinched waist (when fastened), the shape will focus the attention to the top of the body, making the wearer appear broader. Plus, it draws the eyes upwards, and that can give the illusion of looking a little taller. Wanna know how it really feels though? “They’re like a warm hug as they wrap around you a lot more than a single-breasted [jacket],” says digital content creator and suit lifer Reuben Larkin.
