The Business of Beauty Haul of Fame: Rosemary’s Maybe



Welcome back to Haul of Fame, the weekly beauty roundup of new products, new ideas and new reasons to watch “Bring It On.” (As if you needed them!)

Included in today’s issue: Ciaté London, Calvin Klein, Dieux, Estée Lauder, Evian, Follain, Kate Spade, Kitsch, Laneige, Marc Jacobs, Megababe, Pat McGrath Labs, Sabon, S’able Beauty, Sienna Naturals, Silk’n, Trinny London, YSE Beauty, Zara and the Rancho Carne Toros.

But first … a little beauty history.

In 1967, a press conference was held for Mia Farrow’s hair. It was on the set of “Rosemary’s Baby,” the Roman Polanski film that would transmute the actress into an icon. Vidal Sassoon did the shearing for the film … though Farrow had slashed her own long locks the year before with a pair of drugstore scissors. A Vogue spread with Richard Avedon followed. (Pretty badass, if you ask me.)

The canny PR stunt bridged the gap between Hollywood glamour and suburban awareness, and made “Rosemary’s Baby” a dinner table talking point before the movie had even been shot. It also provided a script for emerging actresses to use their hair as a billboard for future success. Emma Watson’s viral pixie cut in 2010 signalled she was finally done with Hermione Granger; Natalie Portman caused a Cannes sensation in 2006, when she swapped her “Star Wars” duties for a jaw-dropping buzz cut. The movie she was promoting, “V for Vendetta,” netted a $100 million profit at the box office.

Why I am getting into this? Because this week, Zoey Deutch got her own pixie cut and blonde upgrade courtesy of Tracy Cunningham and Redken. It’s for her upcoming role as another iconic actress, Jean Seberg, in Richard Linklater’s film “New Wave,” which hasn’t even started shooting yet. And though Deutch is beloved by the fashion crowd — like Lily Collins, she’s extremely kind and also a blast to hang out with at parties and events — she’s still, essentially, an emerging actress, albeit a very skilled one. (Yes, yes, her mom is Lea Thompson from “Back to the Future” fame and her father, Howard Deutch, is a director.)

Still, the chop and Redken’s involvement got coverage in People magazine, E! Entertainment and Yahoo News, along with the expected (and advertiser-baiting) fawning at consumer mags like Allure and Cosmopolitan. With readership in the tens of millions combined, that kind of press for a movie that hasn’t even said “action!” is a win. Linklater and his production company get early buzz, Redken gets a potential Oscar tie-in and Deutsch cements herself as a beauty influencer. And because this isn’t an official partnership between Redken’s parent brand L’Oréal and the film itself, they both avoid the cheesy smirks elicited from in-film marketing like the giggle-inducing Mean Girls x E.l.f. Cosmetics situation. Teen girls are the smartest about branding, after all; their cafeteria seating placement depends on it.

Is this film-adjacent branding the future of #SponCon? Let’s see how the film does, and if Redken sees an uptick in blonde-on-blonde sales. Meanwhile, can some luxury suncare brand please do Parker Posey’s spray tan for the next “White Lotus” instalment and blast it everywhere? Vacation Inc, we’re waiting…

What Else Is New?

Skincare

On Mar. 7, Silk’n debuted an LED Neck Mask “to refine and firm the neck and cleavage from the inside out.” The gizmo claims to “energise cellular function, promote collagen synthesis, improve firmness, reduce fine lines and minimise the appearance of pigmentation.” Meanwhile, I claim to be a natural blonde. Harsh? Sure, but here’s a counter balance: Silk’n is also launching a new SilkyAirPro that looks a lot like the Dyson Airwrap, but costs about $300 less, and its “ultra-smooth, healthy” promises seem far more promising.

Big congrats to body positivity crusader Katie Sturino and her personal care line Megababe for launching at Walmart on Mar. 4. Products like Thigh Rescue, Rosy Pits Deo and Bust Dust will now be available in the same place as $60 backyard trampolines. Major.

On Mar. 6, Dieux landed in Sephora, a week after appearing backstage as the official under eye patch of the Vaquera show. I do wish the models had worn them on the runways, the way Puppets & Puppets used Starface as an accessory in 2022. Maybe next season!

Also in retail news, Follain had its big relaunch on Mar. 6, unveiling packaging and formulas that adhere to the sustainability and traceability standards of its new owner, Credo Beauty.

Maybe Y2K beauty really is here to stay. On Mar. 4, Evian introduced three new facial sprays to “protect, glow and calm” the complexion.

Sydney Sweeney helped debut Laneige’s new Bouncy & Firm Sleeping Mask on Mar.5; it’s meant for the whole face and not just the lips like its cult Lip Sleeping Mask. But if you are into lips, Milk Makeup’s Kush lip oil also hit shelves on Mar. 5, and so did Mara’s Sea Silk lip balm in a barely-there tint called Nude Beach.

Sabon’s New Generation Body Scrub entered the market on March 7. It must be a tough time for any brand that lists Dead Sea salt as a key ingredient, and it’ll be interesting to see if there’s any dialogue around the sourcing … or if it’s just lauded as a remarkably effective exfoliator.

Hair Care

Zara had a major party for one of my favourite-ever hair artists, Guido Palau, in Paris last week; it was to celebrate his Zara Hair launch on Mar. 5, which includes five basics (Hair Spray, Dry Texturising Spray, Volumising Mousse, Hair Balm, Curl Activator and Blow Dry Spray) inspired by his core kit. Palau crafted the hair for 17 (!) shows this season, including Valentino, The Row and Dior. In other words: A lot of slicked-back ponies; a lot of hair spray needs!

Mar.1 brought Kitsch’s first-ever dry shampoo. Since they’re a “bottle free” brand, it comes in a little container with a fluffy brush attached for application. The blush-brush finishing technique is how red carpet hair guru Danielle Priano finished my blowout a few weeks ago, and I can tell you, it was the smoothest and longest-lasting one I have ever had. As a Type 3 curl girl, that really means something.

Attention, “Bring It On” fans: Kirsten Dunst is flashing the most perfectly sculpted eyebrows on the cover of Marie Claire; in related news, the cheerleading brand Varsity Spirit debuted a Varsity Beauty line on Mar. 5, including a “slick stick” for flyaway hair. Presumably, it announced the nine new products via megaphone.

Issa Rae’s new campaign for Sienna Naturals premiered on Mar. 5. The theme is “rooted in real” and it’s meant to highlight “the nuanced relationship between women and their hair care routines.” (There is also a fantastic “Black-ish” episode about this starring stealth beauty VIP Marsai Martin and overt beauty VIP Tracee Ellis Ross.)

On Mar. 5, Molly Sims’ skincare line YSE beauty dropped its Wide Awake Brightening Eye Cream. Their tagline is “concealer optional,” which is fun and easy.

Make Up

I am, above all, a Miu Miu apologist. Still, there was something quite lip-smacking about the brand’s Fall 2024 runway, which included two staples of my wayward youth — skinny jeans and ultra-black eyeliner, rimmed all the way around — that showed the “Saltburn” effect is still going strong on runways. (Also: women in their late 30s and early 40s now have the luxury purchasing power we did not have during Miu Miu’s original boho reign circa 2005, and we’re itching to wear what we want instead of what TikTok tells us.) Will I buy Mrs. Prada’s cigarette-leg denim? Nope; I’ve still got my originals from Nudie Jeans. But will I buy Pat McGrath’s PermaGel Ultra Glide Eye Pencil in Xtreme Black, as seen on models like Esther Cain and Victoria Ceretti? Already added to cart.

Also in the Naughty Aughties eye game, Trinny Woodallhas launched six new shades of liner for her nameksake range. Besides a jet black, she’s got a champagne gold, which could be fun for “no makeup, but okay, yes makeup” days.

On Feb. 29, Ciaté London unveiled Extraordinary Setting Powder in a brightening pink hue and a creamy golden one.

Meanwhile, The Lip Bar and Mielle Beauty introduced a Mielle Pink liquid matte lipstick on Mar. 4. The collaboration “aims to uplift women of colour and entrepreneurs by supporting and celebrating one another.” Ultimately, we can’t shop our way out of the wage gap, but buying from Black-owned and women-owned brands is a very real way to vote with our dollars. Also, the colour is pretty!

Fragrance

Mar. 4 was a big day for fragrance. Idris and Sabrina Elba are the new (and very beautiful) faces of Calvin Klein Eternity Aromatic Essence. The campaign premiered on with imagery by Mert Atlas and music by FKA Twigs, who is a Calvin Klein model herself. The Elbas are already in the beauty game, thanks to their skincare line S’Able Labs; interesting to see them fronting a Coty-owned heritage brand, too.

Also, on Mar. 4 Kate Spade debuted its new Bloom fragrance, which boasts a “green, musky and floral” profile. Also in the green space, Marc Jacobs Daisy Wild has deep green “stems” in its bottle; the perfume itself is the colour of lime juice. The brand imagery is 50 percent fashion nepo baby, including Grace Burns (daughter of Christy Turlington and Ed Burns), Stevie Sims (daughter of Luella Bartley and David Sims), Lennon Sorrenti (of the Italian fashion-and-film Sorrenti clan) and Ever Anderson (daughter of Mila Jovovich and Paul Thomas Anderson).

And Finally…

Sally Hansen’s Hershey Kiss nails are adorable, especially on the heels of the McDonald’s x Nails Inc. collab. Wendy’s, can we get a Frosty manicure to make three a trend? Would also accept Skittles press-ons, as long as I didn’t have to actually taste that rainbow.



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